Day 1 of Haute Couture Fashion Week Showed What it Feels Like to Be In Love, One With Nature and Passionate

Photo: @rahulmishra_7 (Instagram)

Society's fascination with prettiness, the sequential feeling of falling in love and the anxiety of living in the future. Day 1 of haute couture fashion week expressed some of the most dramatic ways to feel alive. From the likes of Marc Jacob, Daniel Roseberry and Rahul Mishra, these designers did not hold back in voicing their theology on love and beauty.

Haute Couture Fashion Week is no ordinary fashion event. It is an exhibition of artisanry talent and fine tailoring. It puts a spotlight on the fashion world, its creative directors, and seamstresses, asking them to showcase their views on culture and politics. Every year, the first 10 days of July have Paris swirling with eccentric fashionistas, dressed in elaborate coats and puffed lace. This year, the Fall/Winter event rolled out the carpet for the returning legends and welcomed some newcomers.

Iris Van Herpen made a comeback with a serene take on bio-luminescence, and Balenciaga bids farewell to a king who held down the fort for a decade—the one and only—Demna. He presents his last collection with the brand this week, before he officially moves on to more Gucci things.

As we await for the rest of couture week to unfold, here is a rundown of day 1 haute couture week:

Schiaparelli

Photo: @schiaparelli (Instagram)

Titled ‘Back to the Future’, Schiaparelli predicted a dark yet sparkly future for the years ahead. Daniel Roseberry imagined a period where hard silver-metals, sweetheart necklines and hints of lipstick red is the beating heart of a global dystopia. His signature structured silhouettes were not forgotten, in fact—it was designed from black satins and sheer cutouts.

Taking inspiration from the archivals, Roseberry revamped the classic palm trees motifs and polka dots into an array of tonal greys, blacks and whites. Amidst all the prints and horse saddles, there was a crystalized red heart beating on the back of a red satin dress.

Rahul Mishra

Photo: @rahulmishra_7 (Instagram)

‘Becoming Love’ took inspiration from the seven emotions of Sufism. Focusing on three of the stages, attraction, infatuation and surrender—the collection was an emotional telling of love and life.

The vein emblems, sequining and shine are the seeds of ‘attraction’, capturing the initial glance of something new. The bloom of vivid pastels and embroidered florals evokes the feeling of ‘infatuation’, a whimsical garden for the emotions to set free. And, ‘surrender’ is when the emotions settle into something gentle taking the form of stringed pearls, whites and sheer organza.

Iris Van Herpen

Photo: @irisvanherpen (Instagram)

‘Sympoiesis’ is Iris van Herpen’s reading of the tide’s curves and the ocean’s natural light. The lacy cutout silhouettes, flowing blue-green organza sleeves and white silk dress is a demonstration of flow similar to that of the wave’s arcs and the ocean’s force—untamed yet fluid. The showstopper from the ‘sympoiesis’ collection was the unimaginable algae dress.

Grown in a sea bath, the mould was cultivated for months before it was shaped into a form-fitting dress with organic cuts. Van Herpen’s inspiration was drawn from the self-sufficient ecosystem underwater that is, unlike man, independent.

Marc Jacobs

Photo: @marcjacobs (Instagram)

‘Beauty’, in the eyes of Marc Jacobs, is the stuffing of the 19th century and mutton-chop sleeves wrapped in printed florals and lace. The decorative use of soft romantic colours like lilac, lace trimmings and spaghetti strapped camisoles are a nod to the sensual styles of lingerie. The collection layered balloon-puffed sleeves and skirts with netted lace blouses and cuffed collars, commenting on the notion that beauty is not without its complications.

Couture fashion week 2025 has set the bar astronomically high on day 1. Themes from Rahul Mishra, Iris Van Herpen and Marc Jacobs portrayed love, nature and beauty in new modes that we would have not envisioned ourselves. Whether it is Schaparelli, Rahul Mishra, or even Ellie Saab, these designers always present nothing less than exceptional.