Ezokhetho AW25 Collection: A Love Letter in Fabric

Some collections are beautiful. Some are bold. And then there’s ZODWA; a collection that feels like a warm, tender hug stitched together with memory, grief, and joy. Unveiled at SA Menswear Week AW’25, ZODWA isn’t just clothes on a runway. It’s the deeply personal story of designer Mpumelelo Dhlamini’s parents. Rooted in the quiet, steadfast love they shared in South Africa during the 1980s and 90s. The name itself comes from the affectionate nickname his father gave his mother, Ntombizonke, making this collection a literal love letter.

But ZODWA also marks a new chapter for Ezokhetho: the introduction of menswear into its world. These pieces stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the brand’s womenswear, reflecting the idea of partnership, of “her and him,” and how love lives in both memory and the now.

The collection is rich with texture and storytelling. Think along the lines of,  gold screen-printed velvet that catches the light like a whispered secret, sculptural mesh that feels almost armour-like, and faux ostrich leather with just the right amount of drama. There are soft, nostalgic nods too, such as designs inspired by inkomazi, the fermented milk drink that feels like home to so many South Africans, and Ezokhetho’s signature chicken foot motif, a cheeky but deeply rooted symbol of heritage and community.

Silhouettes move between structured and fluid, thus reflecting the balance of resilience and tenderness that inspired them. Colours are warm yet grounded, evoking nostalgia without getting stuck in the past.

For Mpumelelo, ZODWA is a spiritual offering. After dedicating his last showcase to his mother, her passing just months later transformed this collection into something even more poignant: a final conversation, a way of keeping her, and the love of his parents, alive in fabric form.

In an industry that can often feel obsessed with the next big trend, ZODWA stands apart. Ezokhetho is more interested in telling the truth about heritage, about love, about identity. This is African heritage reimagined for everyday life, not reserved for special occasions but woven into the rhythm of the present.

And in case you’re wondering? Yes ,you’ll want to wear it all!