The Future of South African Fashion: Lucilla Booyzen’s Vision for a Designer-Led Industry

South Africa’s fashion industry is standing on the precipice of something revolutionary. At its core is Lucilla Booyzen, the visionary behind South African Fashion Week (SAFW). Since founding the platform in 1997, Booyzen has been at the forefront of redefining African fashion—not just as a cultural expression but as an economic force.

For years, the South African fashion industry has been driven by manufacturing, with little emphasis on the designer’s role in shaping its future. But Booyzen sees a different path forward—one where designers, not factories, lead the industry’s evolution.

Globally, the most influential fashion industries are shaped by designers—think of Paris, Milan, New York. These cities have established their dominance not through mass production but through creative visionaries who set trends rather than follow them. Booyzen believes that South Africa must take the same approach.

Booyzen envisions a South African fashion industry that places designers at the forefront rather than being led by manufacturing interests. “I want decision-makers in the fashion industry to recognize the importance of having a designer-led industry instead of a manufacturing-led one,” she states. This perspective has shaped SAFW’s role as an incubator for emerging designers, providing them with the exposure, mentorship, and business acumen necessary to succeed on both local and international stages.

Taking risks is inevitable in fashion, but Booyzen approaches it with a balance of safety and stability. “I prioritize safety and stability, particularly when it comes to SAFW, the designers, and the sponsors. I identify gaps and am committed to taking responsibility for addressing them effectively,” she explains. Her strategic mindset has ensured that SAFW not only endures but thrives in an ever-evolving industry.

A major challenge for South African designers has been international visibility. While local talent is abundant, the infrastructure to support and export these brands has often been lacking. Booyzen has worked tirelessly to change this, using SAFW as a gateway for designers to gain global recognition.

I want decision-makers in the fashion industry to recognize the importance of having a designer-led industry instead of a manufacturing-led one

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She emphasizes the importance of international exposure. “South African designers need to explore beyond local borders. Travel, experience different markets, and immerse yourself in global fashion culture,” she advises. “The world is looking for something new—our designers have that uniqueness.”

One of the most valuable business lessons Booyzen has learned contradicts conventional wisdom: “The person with the most money will win the Fashion Week race.” She disagrees. “It’s not money that determines success in this industry; it’s deep fashion knowledge and expertise that truly pave the way to victory.” Her emphasis on industry knowledge over financial power has guided SAFW’s success, ensuring that designers with talent and vision take center stage.

Under Booyzen’s leadership, SAFW has partnered with key stakeholders, helping designers secure opportunities in international markets. The result? South African designers are no longer just participants in global fashion—they are beginning to shape it.

Beyond organizing fashion shows, Booyzen is dedicated to nurturing emerging talent. SAFW has implemented programs like the '21 Steps to Retail' to enhance designers' business acumen and readiness for the retail market. These efforts have contributed to the growth and enhanced reputation of South African designers both locally and internationally. ​

Set your ego aside and truly listen to your clients—their feedback is essential for your growth.

Booyzen describes her leadership style as fluid, adapting to the needs of the industry and the individuals she works with. “I navigate between different leadership styles, including transformational, democratic, and visionary approaches,” she shares. Her ability to balance innovation with strategic decision-making has made her one of the most respected figures in South African fashion.

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As SAFW continues to evolve, Booyzen envisions an even stronger foundation for South African designers—one where local talent not only thrives within the country but is sought after globally. The future of SAFW will see more international collaborations, mentorship programs, and digital innovations to push the industry forward.

Her message to the next generation of designers and entrepreneurs is simple yet powerful: Listen, learn, and lead. "Set your ego aside and truly listen to your clients—their feedback is essential for your growth. Gain valuable insights into the fashion business and fuel your curiosity to uncover what sets your brand apart." Fashion is not just about creating—it’s about leading.

The future is designer-led, and South Africa is taking notice.