MKDT Studio Fall 2025: A Study in Tension and Harmony
There’s a new name on the Copenhagen fashion circuit, but the DNA remains unmistakable. Mark Kenly Domino Tan has officially evolved into MKDT Studio, a shift that feels less like reinvention and more like quiet refinement. With Caroline Engelgaar at the creative helm, the brand’s Fall 2025 collection is a meditation on contrast—where structure meets fluidity, and tradition collides with modernity.
Engelgaar’s inspiration for the season? Friction. Not just as a tactile experience, but as a reflection of the world’s current state—where extremes coexist, sometimes uneasily. The venue alone set the tone: a glass-roofed extension at the Statens Museum for Kunst, representing the liminal space between past and future. The show’s ominous electronic opening music, punctuated by live classical piano, further underscored the dialogue between tension and resolution.
That duality was woven into the very fabric of the collection. Leather waistbands peeked from beneath soft wool skirts, and technical textiles gave classic tailoring a modern edge, crackling underfoot as models walked. Japanese origami techniques—where deliberate folds create sculptural elegance—shaped the collection’s standout pieces: a sharply pleated blazer and a fluid, architectural dress that cascaded over the body with effortless precision.
At MKDT Studio, craft is never an afterthought—it’s the foundation. This season, Engelgaar played with intricate pearl embroidery, subtly referencing childhood science experiments involving pepper and water. Seen in 2 looks, the embellishment was delicate yet impactful, reinforcing the brand’s commitment to quiet luxury.
Despite the underlying theme of discord, the collection never felt disjointed. Engelgaar masterfully balanced the push and pull of her references, proving that contrast, when executed with intent, can be unexpectedly harmonious. “It’s about trying to make a harmony out of the discord,” she shared. And that she did.
